Manic Soul Machine by Marine Serre:
Winner of last summer’s LVMH Prize, Marine Serre opened the day for Paris Fashion Week with her ‘FutureWear’ (and not futuristic) collection, titled Manic Soul Machine. The young designer graduated from Belgium’s La Cambre in 2016, worked as a design assistant at Balenciaga for a year, before turning her focus on her brand singularly.
The collection she sent down the runway fuses feminine silhouettes with utilitarian detailing. The collection comes across as an extension to her previous collection, which drew on Islamic iconography, such as the crescent moon motif. This time, she had used contrasting fabrics, such as lycra for skin-tight scuba style tops, set against rigid denim jackets. She complemented the stark design aesthetics with ornate accessories and scarves fashioned to reinvent traditional bucket bags – which can be referenced to Bedouins of Middle East in early 90s.
Photography Lucie Rox
Designed for urban, active and resolutely modern women in search of outfits with both an aesthetic and practical appeal, Jour/ne is a fashion child of Léa, Lou & Jerry. This season, the colour palette and aesthetics both edge towards nocturnal and dramatic. The trio stuck to their non-conformist silhouettes, opting for belting and layering of not only contrast materials but also moonlit fluid midnight dress with structured plaid vest.
Photo Courtesy: Glo Stalano for NowFashion
Closing the last season of 2018 with nostalgic 80s; deconstructed silhouettes by Victoria and Thomas were sometimes cinched in with elastic waistband or accentuated with pocket patches and oversized bows. A forest green bomber also made an appearance, which can be worn right about now!
One of my favourites from day one, primarily due to the melange of techniques, aesthetics and structure that the Japanese designer sent down the Paris Fashion Week AW 18-19 runway. He layered the traditional trench with holographic inlays and vinyl finish.
Edgy minimalism with lacy stockings and knee high boots that command attention, and praise.