Fashion campaigning is a real deal, and heightened consciousness in fashion fraternity often sees designers use their runways to deliver a message. Maria Grazia Chiuri decided that “NO!” was what she wanted to say. “I think sometimes it’s good to say no, because it’s difficult. It’s not easy. I wanted to start this collection by saying, ‘No, no, no!”

The collection was driven by modern-day feminist movement, with plenty of colorful plaids, checks and patterned fabrics, like a navy-and-red tartan-esque tulle skirt with a polka dot underlay. She threw the fabric (in several colorways, including denim) onto prairie dresses, oversized tapered trousers, shift skirts and even accessories, like the aforementioned bags and influencer-friendly knee-high boots. There was also plenty of leather and, interestingly for fall, cotton eyelet, seen across breezy blouses and midi-length frocks. Dior is also making a play for its newest hero items: A classic leather belt with a gold “D” as its buckle, the ever-popular Gucci version of which can be seen on the industry’s many devotees, as well as its own retro monogram, which Gucci, Fendi, Louis Vuitton and more have revived recently for a new generation of consumers.

It was a presentation with as many beautiful pieces as thematic ones, like the aforementioned patchwork parade, with a firm foot down on resistance.