Amato by Furne One was the closing act for Fashion Forward season 5, and for all the right reasons. The Filipino designer, who comes across as a shy and utterly demure person, pushed all boundaries to put on a fantastic, impressing and headline-generating show.

He is an established haute couturier and had dressed many a-list celebrities. His reputation for meticulously made garments, handmade accessories, homemade textiles and embroideries has taken him to the runways and red carpets of New York, Paris, London and back to Dubai.

His collection for Fashion forward’s season 5’s runway was inspired by Leo Tolstoy’s tragic 1877 novel Anna Karenina. There was an underline depression, decorated with high fashion charcoal grey, acid-­washed blue denim and russet reds.

As the 40-strong collection haunted catwalk of gravel mounds and decayed tree for the show, we saw some of the most covetable skirts we’ve seen in a long time: denim skirts belted with a bow or knee-length with frills at the back. There were also washed-out denim flare pants that can take you from day to night, and, as usual, heavily beaded lace bodices and red-carpet worthy numbers.

Here’s the low down of what the collection is all about, directly from the horses’ mouth, as reported by The National:

The pieces

“The title of this collection is Love Is a Battlefield and I was very inspired by Anna Karenina. She was so advanced in terms of love and she truly fought for it, even though it was a big scandal at the time. I was moved by the story.”

The fabrics

“We have lots of lace, denim and cotton, which makes things very prêt-à-porter. This collection is really something new and a bit different to my last collections. The look is 18th/19th century, but the fabrics are very now. And everybody loves denim.”

The silhouettes

“There are puff skirts with shirt-type blouses. Puffed-sleeved embroidered jackets and lots of zippers, which makes it very industrial.”

The embellishments

“All the embellishments are made from safety pins and crystals.”

Testing limits

“I’ve deconstructed and upscaled denim jackets, which is pretty different. And the finale piece is a huge denim cape with red lace.”

Model attitude

“What’s important is that I’m always thinking ‘my woman’ is not afraid of the dictates of fashion. She’s strong and wants to experiment.”

The setting

“The story is very depressing so I wanted the stage to be depressing, but of course, still high fashion [laughs].”

To see the complete collection, please click here.

All images are credited to Ian Gavan/Getty Images for Fashion Forward.